Upper Mustang Trek

Overview

Upper Mustang Trek Overview

The Upper Mustang Trek is often called the "Forbidden Kingdom" or "Tibet in Nepal" among the trekking community, but it is really much more than a mere side trip. It leads you into a stark, arid, high-desert land hidden in the rain shadow of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges, where the hand of modernity has barely touched the ancient way of life. The barren plateaus and red cliffs are bathed in relentless sunlight, while only the narrow riverbeds and tiny irrigated fields of barley offer patches of green. So, the trek into Upper Mustang—a once-closed kingdom sharing culture, language, and religion with Tibet—offers a rare glimpse of traditional Tibetan Buddhist life that is increasingly difficult to find even in Tibet itself. Among trekking circles, it is nicknamed “the last secret of the Himalayas.” 

Trekkers pause to admire the dramatic red cliffs and ancient chortens along the Upper Mustang trail, one of Nepal’s most culturally rich and otherworldly routes. 

The path is a masterclass in geological drama and cultural continuity. It takes you from the deep, dramatic Kali Gandaki gorge—one of the deepest on earth—through narrow canyons and wind-carved rock formations, up onto vast, dry plateaus dotted with whitewashed villages and cave monasteries. The lodges here are modest family homes or simple guesthouses, far from the bustling teahouses of Annapurna or Everest. The trail is shared with mule caravans carrying supplies, local women in traditional dress spinning prayer wheels, and occasional pilgrims heading to Muktinath. It is a journey measured not just in kilometers but in the gradual immersion into a centuries-old Tibetan-Buddhist culture that has changed little since the days of the old kingdom of Lo. 

Majestic barren plateaus under an endless blue sky, with trekkers walking past ancient cave dwellings. 

Undertaking this trek is demanding on the body—long days on dusty, rocky paths, strong winds, and thin dry air—but deeply nourishing for the mind. It is a true journey that reaches its heart in the ancient walled city of Lo Manthang. Beyond good legs, you need curiosity, openness to a very different way of life, and the willingness to disconnect from the modern world and tune into the rhythm of prayer flags, chanting monks, and the silence of high desert. If someone seeks an adventure that combines cultural depth, historical wonder, and the feeling of stepping into another time and place, then Upper Mustang stands as one of the most unique and rewarding teahouse treks in the Himalayas nowadays. 

A Snapshot of the Adventure 

The Upper Mustang Trek is typically a 13 to 17-day journey covering about 100–150 kilometers (62–93 miles) round trip. It starts at around 2,720 m in Jomsom and reaches its highest point in Lo Manthang at approximately 3,840 m (12,598 ft). Because it is an out-and-back or loop route, you experience the dramatic change from deep valley to high desert without retracing every step. The trek is rated “moderate” due to steady daily distances, some short passes, dry air, and wind exposure, but it is achievable with good fitness and prior hiking experience. 

It remains a “Restricted Area”—you cannot trek alone. You must travel with a licensed guide and at least one other trekker (minimum group of 2 + guide), and obtain the expensive Restricted Area Permit. This regulation helps protect the fragile environment and unique culture of the region. 

The Lower Trails: Jomsom to Chele (Entry into the Forbidden Land) 

Starting point – Kagbeni village with its red monastery and apple orchards. 

Most trekkers fly into Jomsom and walk the short stage to Kagbeni—the official gateway to Upper Mustang. The first day or two follow the wide, stony riverbed of the Kali Gandaki, passing through the interesting village of Chhusang with its ancient cave dwellings. The landscape is already dry and dramatic, with towering cliffs and the sound of wind constant. After crossing the restricted-area checkpost at Kagbeni, the trail climbs more steeply to Chele (Chaile). Here you begin to feel the transition: greener fields disappear, replaced by barren slopes and the first whitewashed houses. 

Entering Upper Mustang: Chele to Ghiling / Dhakmar (Into the Desert World) 

After Chele the path climbs through narrow canyons and over small passes (such as Yamdo La ~3,600 m). You reach Samar, then descend and climb again to Syangboche/Geling and onward to Dhakmar. The terrain opens into high, arid plateaus. Villages consist of flat-roofed, whitewashed stone houses, mani walls, and small gompas. The air is dry and crisp, the sunlight intense, and snow peaks of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri appear distant on the horizon. The silence is profound—broken only by wind, occasional birds, and the tinkling of yak bells. 

Ghami to Tsarang: The Cultural Heartland 

Ancient mani wall near Ghami—one of the longest in Nepal. 

Beyond Ghiling you pass the impressive mani wall of Ghami and reach the village of Dhakmar with its striking red and white rock formations. The trail continues to Tsarang (Charang), an important historic settlement with a large gompa, an old royal palace, and a maze of lanes. The landscape is classic Mustang: eroded cliffs painted in red and ochre, barley fields fed by narrow irrigation channels, and the constant presence of Buddhist symbols—chortens, prayer flags, and carved mani stones. 

Lo Manthang: The Walled City of the Kingdom 

The ancient walled capital of Lo Manthang (3,840 m)—heart of the old kingdom. 

After a steady climb the trail arrives at Lo Manthang—the walled city that was once the capital of the Kingdom of Lo. Inside the ancient walls you find the royal palace, three major gompas (Thubchen, Jampa, and Chode), old chortens, and traditional flat-roofed houses. This is the cultural and spiritual highlight of the trek. Spend at least one full day (or two) exploring the city, visiting monasteries, and taking short side trips to nearby caves or Namgyal Gompa. The atmosphere is timeless and peaceful—a living museum of Tibetan Buddhist culture. 

The Descent into Green: Lo Manthang to Muktinath / Jomsom 

The return journey usually follows a different path, descending through Yara and Tangge or via Tetang and the high Ghyu La pass to Muktinath. Muktinath is a famous pilgrimage site with Hindu and Buddhist temples and 108 water spouts. From there the trail drops quickly to Jomsom, bringing you back to greener vegetation, apple orchards, and the familiar roar of the Kali Gandaki. Suddenly you are again among jeeps, more trekkers, and the conveniences of the main Annapurna trail. 

Unforgettable Highlights of the Circuit 

The Upper Mustang Trek is defined by recalling the very specific instances that have been left in the memory. 

• Lo Manthang: The ancient walled capital with its royal palace, historic gompas, and timeless streets—a true living medieval kingdom. 
• Cave Monasteries (Luri Gompa, Chhoser Caves): Ancient Buddhist retreats carved into sandstone cliffs, filled with murals and sacred art dating back centuries. 
• Red Cliffs and Painted Rock Formations: Surreal desert canyons in vibrant reds, whites, yellows, and blues—like a painted Grand Canyon in the Himalayas. 
• Ghami Mani Wall: One of the longest prayer walls in Nepal, a massive collection of carved mani stones stretching across the landscape. 
• Tibetan Buddhist Culture: Prayer flags fluttering in the wind, sky burial sites (observed discreetly), barley beer, traditional festivals (especially Tiji in May), and warm Loba hospitality. 
• Kali Gandaki Gorge and Shaligrams: Dramatic entry through the world's deepest gorge, with opportunities to find fossilized ammonites (shaligrams) in the riverbed. 

Permit Navigation 

Due to the area being a restricted zone (on the border with Tibet) and stricter policies enforced here than usual, Upper Mustang no longer allows you to obtain permits yourself. A registered agency must handle the paperwork. You will need three special permissions: 

• Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit (RAP): The fee is USD 500 per person for the first 10 days, plus USD 50 per person per day beyond that (as of 2026 rates). It covers the restricted zone from Kagbeni/Chele onward. 
• Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) Permit: A conservation fee of around USD 30. 
• TIMS Card: Trekkers' Information Management System, around USD 15–20 (often included or low-cost). 

There is a "minimum number of trekkers" rule: solo trekking is prohibited, but agencies can pair you with another trekker if needed (you still require a guide). 

Seasons of the Mountain: When to Go 

Timing is everything on the Upper Mustang Trek. The best windows are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). 

Autumn: This is often the peak season. With post-monsoon clarity, the air is crisp and clean, giving the sharpest views of distant peaks. Days are mild, nights cool, and fewer clouds mean stunning sunsets over the red cliffs. 

Spring: Pleasant temperatures, blooming wildflowers in lower areas, and the chance to witness the colorful Tiji Festival (usually May). It's slightly warmer than autumn but can be windier in afternoons. 

Winter and Monsoon: Generally possible due to the rain shadow (minimal rain even in summer), but winter brings cold nights and possible snow on high passes, while summer can be dusty/hot with strong winds. Many prefer to avoid extremes. 

Why Choose Upper Mustang Trek? 

If you're looking for a journey that feels ancient and untouched, this is it. 

The Upper Mustang Trek offers travelers a rare chance to escape the "trekking highways" of Nepal and step into a hidden world where time stretches into eternity. It’s quiet here. You don’t fight crowds on trails or queues at viewpoints. Instead, you wander remote villages near the Tibetan border, where life follows the rhythm of seasons, prayer, and wind. Every step reveals discoveries—whether colorful prayer flags against deep blue skies, eroded canyons like painted sculptures, or the profound silence of ancient gompas. It’s for those who want the real cultural Himalayas, without the commercial gloss. 

The Upper Mustang Trekking Schedule